Gentle Persuasion

As if to tell us that it was OK to leave Cartagena, smooth out our worries that we would be disappointed with a new place, the cruise ships landed. About a billion people poured into the streets, clogging the sidewalks and caused the street vendors to heighten their sales tactics, yelling over the crowds, making our tranquil little hamlet a roaring, hot, crowded yuck fest. OK maybe that is a bit severe, but the people that descended on the old city were anything but appreciative of its gifts. These loud, rough, people that plowed their way through the shops and cafes said things like "it's the same old shit" or "where are we this time?" or "when can we get back on the boat". It was depressing.

In an effort to leave the crowds of the old city, we ventured outside the protection of the walled cocoon and into the "real" part of the city to see an ancient fortress. This 'sight to see' was located in what many might consider the true city since it is where most locals live. It is filled with high rises, car horns and poverty. Now we weren't staying in the old walled city proper, our area wasn't all gold and lace, in fact our area had prostitutes and drunk toothless men on stoops and yes, my husband Jesse was asked if he wanted any drugs... twice. BUT the prostitutes were friendly and while their faces definitely were hardened from their life experiences, they were gentle and kind to us. The toothless men greeted us politely each time we passed and the drug enthusiasts asked in the most friendly, nonthreatening way, if we wanted anything. No, seriously, it really was so safe feeling and wonderful. But now we were in a foreign land, the "outside", and walking, alone.

We found ourselves at the fortress, a mammoth stone pyramid/ castle, that let us see the rest of Cartagena and the sunset. It was a fascinating glimpse into the past and worth the steep, sweaty climb to the top. As the sun dipped and the skyline became an array of twinkling lights, we headed back home...now in the dark.

Most people are probably thinking "oh crap! I knew it, this is when all the stories I've heard about Colombia are going to happen to this poor family", but it is actually the opposite. The streets, even in a questionable area, were big and bright and were filled with friendly people. Sketchy places that had us looking at each other sideways in daylight, turned into fruit sellers and coffee vendors by night. Happy laughter filled the air in these areas of town as European backpackers and locals shared drinks together. It was remarkable. Now that said, we try to be smart about travelling and kept our passports locked in a safe at the hotel and I didn't carry a purse, but I also watched as Colombian tourists to the area, wore big bold jewelry and European tourists openly asked directions showing their vulnerability. It is a significantly different Colombia these days and the locals try to tell you that every chance they can.

We turned the corner onto our hotel street and  it was as if time slowed, becoming a thick dough you try to move your hands through. The brightly colored flags above our heads reflected the street lights and the entire street seemed to glow warmly. Every shop owner and vendor smiled big and nodded their heads hello, recognizing us as we moved past their doorway. The sweet, warm air was thick with the familiar smell of flowers, fried food and cigars. We inhaled each moment, each step, until we reached our hotel. reticent to have the evening end.

As we stepped up onto the sidewalk and out of the more pedestrian friendly roadway, we were greeted by a brand new Italian Restaurant! Jesse and I were married in Italy and last year took our son to Italy introducing him to the family obsession. Turns out the owner, an Italian man, and his wife moved to Cartagena recently and decided to open this little bistro. Lucky us, we stumbled upon them on opening night! Handmade pasta, Italian wines and exquisite presentation made for the most endearing final meal in a city we fell in love with much like we did with Italy.

There is no denying that Colombia has had a frightening past, but they have done so much to change the atmosphere of the country and its troubled cities in the recent years. They are welcoming to tourists, excitedly sharing where new travelers should make sure to go and compassionately help those that speak Spanish as deplorably as I do. They are a wonderful people in a gorgeous country and I highly suggest you plan a visit.

-Cheers from the Vivác Winery Family!
www.VivacWinery.com