Sunday, January 21, 2018

Who's Thirsty?

OK, it's time to talk seriously about our adventures in Colombia. How is the wine?

Immediately in Cartagena, we found that cheap Chilean wine was easily accessible and more expensive wines were still within reason. Many other places we have traveled in the past, wine was difficult to come by and the export/ import fees usually drove the prices up to a ridiculous, staggering price...for crap. This discovery of good wine at great prices in Colombia was a serious win for a winemaker on vacation with his wine loving, Sommelier wife.

Traveling from a port city like Cartagena deep into the mountains of central Colombia seemed certain to complicate the wine situation, but amazingly it got even better! In Jardin we found that a great bottle of wine at a restaurant/ cafe/ shop (somehow all the same pricing) was about $12. Buying the boxed Chilean wine meant you got a litre of wine for $5 and was a totally solid product. It was wildly exciting for us and made for many a evening on the town plaza, at a charming cafe with a bottle of wine possible. As a side note, the people watching was fabulous too and became a daily activity... bottle of wine in hand or not.

Because we are equal opportunity drinkers, it is important to mention the locally made Aguardiente Liquor. This clear, licorice flavored potent drink is silky smooth with a kick. You can sip a shot of it or add it to a glass of water with lime. After a parade on Three Kings Day, when the locals pranced their horses around the square, competing with each other for praise of showmanship, they'd stop at each bar for a shot of this crazy booze. Quickly absorbed by the celebration and live Colombian music bellowing out of one of the nearest bars, we found ourselves magnetically drawn from our hotel balcony into the frey. In true character, my generous husband bought a group of riders a round of shots, instantly becoming a favorite to the group, his big grin and easy laugh endearing him to the locals instantly. As it would happen, those inside the open doorway to the bar, crooning the lyrics of what must be a favorite folk song along side the musicians, saw my husband's kind gesture and in turn bought us shots of Aguardiente! And so, with this story, you can see how this drink has found a home in our hearts as well.

Local beer is delicious and while it couldn't remain cool in the heat of Cartagena, it stays frosty in the mountainous cool air. Beer is also $1 a bottle so clearly it needs to be a part of any complete diet.

It should also be noted that we do not ONLY drink booze. Coffee throughout Colombia is incredible (as you can imagine) and varies according to where you are. Much like wine, coffee shows the terroir of where it is grown so farm to farm it will be different not to mention roasting styles. It is delightful to try the many different cafes around the square that prepare the coffee differently and showcase different farms. Also, while coffee from a street vendor (men that looked like they are carrying carpentry tools in a wooden create, are actually on the go coffee dealers) is about $0.10, and is a whopping $0.33 in Jardin. If you like it with milk, which is steamed and more like heavy cream, it is $1.25. It makes sense why people drink coffee literally all day here.

The funny thing is you see people drinking beer with breakfast and I don't mean a few crazy drunks, I mean a lot of people. And at night, the cafes are full of people drinking coffee! It is easily 50% of the people are drinking beer and the other half drinking coffee at all times of the day. Oh and you can buy beer literally everywhere. Bakery, ice cream shop, you name it, there is always a cooler filled with beer.

The temperatures don't allow for much actual wine production in Colombia, but we have seen a couple bottles here and there. Areas that struggle with grape growing, generally make for terrible wines so we have not been brave enough to try it as of yet, but perhaps after a couple shots of Aguardiente, we just might find the liquid courage to do so.

-Cheers from the Vivác Winery Family!
www.VivacWinery.com

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