The Sweetness of Perfection

The days we spent in Cartagena dripped over us like warm honey. Life moved slow there, sticky with sweat as the gold tinged light rolled over us. The heat of the afternoon each day would drive us off the cobblestone streets of old town and into an air conditioned oasis; museums, stores, cafes. And as each evening stretched its long fingers across the city, the vibrantly colored flowers dazzled like jewels of every color. The hours slipped into night as slowly buildings and trees illuminated our way, hanging thick with holiday lights. It was at night when the streets were full of people and vendors, food and music, but never in a manic way like many other cities, more in the way of New Orleans, smooth and sexy. We slept in, had incredible coffee from cart vendors at each shade dappled plaza park, ate fabulous food sold by little old men in fedora hats and soaked in the warmth of the people. It was swoon worthy.

One of these sleepy, dreamlike days, took us into the Chocolate Museum. A couple small adjoining rooms packed with the history of chocolate and the process from tree to finished bar. It was well done, and like everything in the old city, charming beyond words. The intoxicating aroma of the shop and cafe attached to the mini museum kept us there for hours more as they lavished us with sample after sample of every kind of treat they had. It was a real life Willy Wonka situation as they delighted us with various types of hot cocoas, teas and coffees, bars, jams, sauces, candies, fruit covered delicacies and everything in-between. They even had chocolate flavored cigars and chocolate liquors. Most chocolate liquors I'd had previously were something you might add to your coffee or sip with dessert, but these, oh man, these were potent little aphrodisiacs mixed with spice and thick chocolate. It tasted like Cartagena, smooth and rich and utterly seductive.

You'd think that we would have had enough chocolate after the endless flow of samples, but since most of what they made at this little shop was not sweet, it didn't render a headache or twist your tummy. Instead, like a lullaby, it rocked us gently... gently into their cafe where we had a menu of chocolate infused items to choose from. We sat in a center, shaded garden and laughed as we played with the fondue and sipped chocolate mint iced teas. It was absolutely delicious in every sense of the word. Well played Chocolate Museum, well played.

The rest of the day we meandered the tiny European like streets, walking by Gabriel Garcia Marquez's home (a highlight for 3 fans of the writer) then fell into a bookstore/ cafe/ bar tucked into a nook down a small side street. My son's current obsession is books, great literature, so a bookshop to him is actually better than the Chocolate Museum. For my husband and I, the heat and slow stroll had worked up a thirst and since in Colombia they sell beer at ice cream stands, the bar at the bookshop was a lucky occurrence, but not a surprise. The 3 of us lost a couple more hours as we sipped chilled white wine and discussed the classics.

As sunset approached we sought out the top of the "old wall". This ancient wall is about 10ft thick allowing for a huge walkway that offers gorgeous views of the old city on one side and the ocean on the other. Originally serving as protection for the city, the wall is now a must see for tourists. We watched the sun set and the city light up and wondered if we should ever leave.

Each day was the same, yet different; the Museum of Gold, the Museum of Emeralds, the Museum of the Inquisition, a special little cafe, a stroll through the streets. All aspects of our former reality melted away and even struggling with my cell phone didn't seem to matter. Each easy day rolled into the next until we didn't know the date or time. As Americans this was a strange and opulent way of being in the world and we drank it up.

It was with heavy hearts that after 6 days we decided we needed to leave. It was our duty to leave. We had 2 months afforded to this adventure and Colombia is a big country. If we were to explore some of the vastly different areas and have time to pick one to settle down in, we needed to get going.

Saying goodbye to Cartagena felt melancholy, yet, as we sat on our hotel balcony, surrounded by vivid bougainvillea, wrapped in the warm humid air, smoking a Cuban Cigar, the streets below burst into salsa music from a impromptu marching band. Little old men and hard looking women always seemed warm and welcoming here and as the locals filled the streets, you could feel that love of life float up to us. It was as if the city was sending us off with a poetic kiss. It was a perfection.

-Cheers from the Vivác Winery Family!
www.VivacWinery.com